Travelogue

Lofoten Islands adventure was my most special trip after Japan. Neither it was long, nor far.. On the contrary it was quite enough to make me miss right after it. And actually, it did.

I was there in February, so it was one of the harshest months in winter. I have been in Lofoten in 2019, just a month before Covid surrounded the whole world. I had decided to join to a Norway photography tour belong to successful landscape photographer Ilhan Eroglu, at the first time I saw it. Another dream of mine was stepping into Lofoten archipelago.
So I did go and explore it. And I am very glad that I was able to make this happen and it is simply amazing to write these words.

However, the part of arriving Lofoten was not super easy. Since there wasn't any direct flight, we had to take 2 extra flights from Oslo and Bodø for reaching Leknes. Even though we had a pretty tough journey, we’re well sure that we’ll have an awesome journey on our way to our Rorbuer!

After having a dinner and sleeping, the next day we got up like a soldier at the earliest times in the morning, it was still dark. As a sunrise classic, we were on our way without having our breakfast! First stop was Reine, the famous village that we know from many international magazines and websites as the promotional face of Lofoten.

So yes, the one I’ve seen lots of photos of, Reinebringen was looking at to me with all its glory! However we didn’t have the chance to enjoy the sunrise we want.. Actually there was no sun at all. Little foggy and cloudy weather, that was all we got. I don't even need to mention how cold it was. Anyway we took our blue hour pictures and drove to our hotel for breakfast.

Well, no lies, Norway is exactly like that.
So let me warn you about planning a trip to Norway. Especially in a place like Lofoten, in the northern Norway, the possibility of running your car at -30 Celsius will be way more than your chance to see a piece of sun. Also, it really doesn’t make a difference whether winter or summer. While I was flying to Oslo, I was having a conversation with the passengers next to me, and I was literally shocked, when the time they told me the suicide numbers in the whole country were quite high. I was pretty sure that Norway is also in the top 10 list of the world’s happiest people (And still it is!)
But right after they said the reason behind it, I had started to realize.
Then I have arrived to Norway, spent a couple of days in Oslo and finally confronted the real deal in Lofoten. There was no sun. So the weather might be a drastic factor for you.
But as a person who enjoys cold weather like me, it was absolutely magical.
Our trip had lasted for 4 days, we have visited many beautiful locations and came across to stunning views. We never ever saw the sun, just once, we were able to enjoy and photograph a piece of light which appearing suddenly at sunset.

However.. I quite understood something while traveling.
Well yes.. I would really want to enjoy the sun during my trip and look to the lovely photos I took. However, being in Lofoten, breathing that fresh air, accepting the sceneries granted..
To respect nature. This is the only thing that matters.

So in that way, Norway didn’t disappoint me.. On the contrary. Exploring the fresh snow on the mountains.. Inhaling the clear air as much as possible.. Stepping into eternal whiteness..

Finding peace in the clear blue waters.. Running around while chasing the northern lights, waiting hours in the cold with the cameras & tripods and in the end, feeling that unique gratitude and pride when the nature rewards you...Yes.. It was priceless.

If you decide to travel Lofoten in winter, probably your first reason will be to catch these supernatural greenish-purple lights, known as Aurora Borealis.
So what is that Aurora Borealis? How does it occur?
Let me explain this quickly. It is a natural phenomenon, displays in the Earth’s Northern Hemisphere that is caused by the electrically charged particles from the sun interacts with the Earth’s magnetic field, which are generally green colored, rarely purple and red. Just a few seconds after watching them, they will simply make you feel like in another planet.

So this is how I have gained my best memories in Lofoten.
It was totally another experience to photograph the lights as well as watching them! We jumped to one rock to another, got wet up to our knees..
We tried to live the moment as much as we can. It was an otherworldly unbelievable experience. A magical arctic adventure.

Well I say, if you don't hate the cold, discover this fantastic land as soon as possible!

Local Guide

As a tourist and a traveler, there are some main locations for you to explore by driving and could be miles between them. Therefore, I recommend that you check in advance the places you will travel and determine the duration of your stay. You may not enjoy the views outside for a long time due to the cold, but try to hang on as much as you can.

For hikers and adrenaline lovers, they can enjoy plenty of climbing and hiking in summer days.

REINE: Located in the Moskenesøya Island, Reine, the pretty face of Lofoten, selected as the most beautiful village in Norway in 1970, by the largest weekly magazine of Norway. In here, the local people have been living in the red fishing cabins for a long time. You will come across stunning sceneries both summer and winter, in this popular spot of travelers and photographers.

HAMNØY: One of the most known photography locations, Hamnøy, located 1.5 km northeast of Reine. It is the oldest fishing village in Lofoten.

SAKRISØY: There is a wonderful visual harmony between the clear bluish waters and famous yellowish-orange cabins in this beautiful village. Sakrisøy is situated at the foot of majestic Olstind, and that makes it one of the best photography spots in Lofoten.

NUSFJORD: With yellow & red huts and dark blue waters, Nusfjord offers many spectacular sceneries of magnificent mountains around it. Nusfjord is a calm place and well preserved so it is more like an open air museum rather than a village. Make sure to give Landhandleriet Café a visit and enjoy the authentic ambience.

HENNINGSVAER: Henningsvær is one of the beautiful and colorful villages in the archipelago, so when it comes to drone photography, it is the first place that comes to mind. The most popular sports are the rock climbing and skiing in Henningsvær, which has a population of 510. (2018)

SVOLVAER: Located in the Austvågøya island of Lofoten, Svolvær is the administrative centre of the region, so it is very crowded compared to other villages. You can find lots of restaurants and accommodation options. Svolværgeita (Svolvær Goat) is the most famous symbol of this village, hence the name comes from the 2 rock formations which very alike to a goat’s horns at the summit of the mountain. Hiking and climbing can be done only with a professional guide.

RAMBERG BEACH: Homes to a lonely isolated red hut which photographed for tons of times, Ramberg Beach is like a tropical island with turquoise waters and white sands, except its cold waters. It is the perfect place for relaxing, chilling and enjoying the midday sun. You can easily reach here with the European E10 road.

HAUKLAND BEACH: Haukland is quite similar to Ramberg, with its white sands and blue waters. It is well known as a northern lights location among photographers and the beach has also splendid views of the majestic mountains around the surroundings. Haukland is the most famous beach in the whole Lofoten, so it is one of the first choices for hike lovers. An extraordinary view will be waiting for you above, and you can be quite sure that you will get the reward.

UTTAKLEIV BEACH: We had experienced and photographed the Aurora Borealis in here. Uttakleiv is the ideal long exposure photography spot with various rock formations inside the water, so you’ll get lots of stunning shots both summer and winter. Uttakleiv Beach had chosen the 3rd best beach in the world by British media in 2010.

 

Highlights
  • Lofoten Islands is one of the best places for hiking, climbing, skiing and arctic surfing in Norway.
  • Reinebringen is 448 m above the sea level.
  • Reine has a population of only 314 according to the 2018 census.
  • Lofoten Toy Museum in Sakrisøy, has collected more than 2500 dolls from all over Europe.
  • With its 2469 meters above sea level, Galdhøpiggen is Lofoten archipelago’s, Norway’s and Northern Europe's highest mountain.
  • The largest town Leknes is approximately 169 km inside the Arctic Circle.
  • As of 2017, the islands attract one million tourists a year.
  • The archipelago is composed of seven main islands which are Austvågøya, Gimsøya, Vestvågøya, Flakstadøya, Moskenesøya, Værøy, Røstlandet that are permanently inhabited and connected to the mainland by bridges.
  • One of the famous villages of Lofoten, named as , which is the last letter of Norwegian alphabet and the last village of Lofoten archipelago, is also the end of the European E10 road. In this village which is in the Moskenes municipality, the E10 road ends with a car park.
  • There is a 1.5 m distance from one horn to another in the summit of Svolværgeita, which has the two rock formations alike goat’s horns. So the jumping can be very much likely the most exciting experience you can have in the whole Norway!
Tips and Tricks
  • The best time for northern lights viewing is between November-March, and the best months for hiking are June & July.
  • Be prepare for the cold and bring your waterproof clothes, boats and raincoat.
  • Rent a car. Make sure your car is winter proof.
  • Accommodation and car will be expensive.
  • It is recommended that you stay in one of the iconic red fishing huts in Lofoten.
  • Choose at least one hiking trail in summer and climb to the summit. An extraordinary panoramic view will be waiting for you if you’d like to hike to Reinebringen, which is the famous one.
  • There are very few restaurants around, so if you come across to a supermarket make sure you get what you need.
  • For northern lights viewing, a clear sky needed. There is a possibility that you may not have a tiny sight of northern lights, even you stay for a month. Keep in mind and don’t be disappointed.
  • The roads are generally open even in the harshest weather, since constantly salting. You don’t have to think twice while planning your route.
  • For some locations you may need to use a ferry or you may hike. Make sure to check it out before driving.
  • Bodø - Lofoten ferry journey might be tough than you think.
  • You’re gonna smell lots of dried fish.
  • Beware of avalanche.
  • Don’t camp in winter.
  • About arriving to Lofoten, depend on your location, driving might make more sense instead of flying.
  • Pass over the iconic Fredvang Bridges which is curving around the water and connect 4 islets.
  • Say hello to the lovely puffins in Værøy island, which will definitely remind you the Faroe Islands of Denmark. You can access here with only a helicopter from Bodø and a ferry from Moskenes, Bodø and Røst.
  • Join to one of the whale watching tours in Andenes, and discover these beautiful giants with the naked eye!
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